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Rebuild Notes

Travis Farmer · 399

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Offline Travis Farmer

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on: 2018-07-15, 06:22:10
Ok, first, to catch up:

2018-07-13: i added Marvel Mystery Oil to each engine cylinder, used compressed air to drive the oil deep into the piston rings.

2018-07-14: i checked the engine oil for water contamination, then i put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and vigorously shook it back and forth in short strokes. i noticed movement, and i worked it back and forth in progressively longer strokes. at this time i noticed the distributor jumping around. i already expected it was seized, so i removed it. the engine then turned full cycles. i connected the battery, and used the screwdriver approach to activate the starter, and was so pleased to see it cranking, that i didn't care about the Marvel Mystery Oil blowing out the spark plug holes everywhere.   :D

now that i am up to date, i hope today to be able to at least get the key-switch to activate the ignition and starter. the electrical is a little scary, so who knows. i hope the main wire harness is salvageable. following that, i should check the wires for the gauges.

in order to test-fire the engine, i still need to get a distributor, change the oil, and verify no water leaks, after finding the water inlet... (apparently not part of the sterndrive, perhaps.) i should also have a fire-extinguisher handy, just in case. i also need an alternator, now that i think about it. no alternator = no belt = no water-pump = not good.

one thing i noticed. there looks like a crack in the starboard exhaust header... once i check for water leaks, and fire the engine, it should be more apparent if it is a crack.  :'(

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #1 on: 2018-08-04, 07:38:40
Forgot to update this...
I have gotten the engine to run, though in the process i discovered that the exhaust manifold on the port side looks like it was freeze cracked, and water poured out when i added water to run the engine. this is unexpected, but seems to be right along my luck so far.  ;)

due to the plethora of wires with rotten/crumbling insulation, i have decided to re-wire the boat, just so i know it is all good, and don't have to worry about an electrical fire. i have already purchased an engine wire harness... well, actually it is 7-wire trailer light cable, but it was cheaper, and i will make it work. the engine electrical is fairly simple anyway. even with the fly-bridge wiring, it should be easier with less wires. the cable should provide enough for start, ignition, and the tach, oil pressure, water temp, and two extra if needed. i will be eliminating the Amps gauge, in favor of a volts gauge (so i can upgrade to a 1-wire alternator).
then i just have to figure out the other wiring, such as the outdrive tilt electrical, bilge blower fan, bilge pump, running lights... and i think that covers the basics.

I have a marine radar for the boat, so i will have to build a tip-down radar arch. as i plan on building a GPS chart-plotter using a Raspberry Pi, i will also have to make a mount on the arch for the GPS antenna, in such a way that the radar won't cause interference. this simply means the GPS will have to be mounted either higher or lower than the radar dome. i will also need to have space on the dash for the monitor for the Rpi chart-plotter. but that is a ways down the road on my ToDo list.

My father and i have jacked the boat up on the trailer in preparation for replacing the rollers, as well as making better support for the boat. i also plan on using, if any is left-over, some of the 7-wire cable for wiring up a better trailer electrical hookup. i was never a fan of the 4-wire trailer connectors. they are a pain to plug in, as compared to the 7-blade RV style connector.

~Travis
« Last Edit: 2018-08-12, 07:03:25 by Travis Farmer »

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #2 on: 2018-08-06, 19:41:32
current line of thought is that i plan on eliminating the fly-bridge, in favor of a plain roof. this will also make it easier to mount my radar dome, GPS antenna, and CB antenna.

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #3 on: 2018-08-11, 07:41:55
Well, i received my Fiberglass repair kit yesterday, though i will likely hold off on applying it to the hole in the bottom, until i fix the trailer rollers, so i can reposition the boat, placing the hole over an open area of the trailer, so i don't have to work around a cross-member.

my plans for this weekend are to strip the wiring from the boat, so that i can properly replace it, using the cable i purchased for it. once that is done, i want to see if i can pull the steering cable down from the fly-bridge, and install it into the lower helm, once the helm is re-wired. i can run just the steering cable, and leave the steering wheel components off for now.

ok, so, with the cable i purchased, i should have enough wire to split it in two. this will give me 14 wires (14AWG) to work with. i will run one down the starboard side, and use it for engine functions (start, ignition, tach, oil pressure, water temp, electric shift forward and reverse). the other cable i will run down the port side, and use it for the other functions (bilge auto and manual, blower, outdrive tilt up and down, stern light, and fuel level). i have ordered a pair (red and black) of 8AWG wires that i will use to supply power to the forward portion of the boat. i have started a schematic that i will use, but it is not yet complete. i will post it when complete.

Originally, the fuse block was behind the helm, but i plan on moving it to behind the port console. that way it is easier to get to, and isn't blocked by the steering components.

now, what i have planned for removing the fly-bridge, is first to remove the gauges, steering, and engine control cables. then i hope i can just either slide the old roof off, after removing the fasteners, or if needed, use a reciprocating saw to cut the roof into smaller pieces. obviously, i will want to measure the roof first so i can plan what materials i need to build the new one.
the new one will consist of some 2-by lumber to raise the roof clearance up so i can stand up straight. then i will use plywood, possibly marine-grade if i can afford it, with some edge treatment of pine. the pine will allow me to route the edge with a round profile, and not expose the plywood plies to potential damage, and make them open for water infiltration. initially, i will probably just seal the wood with polyester resin, and that will also be my "primer" for when i have enough fiberglass to glass the whole roof with several protective layers. the "solid" wood roof (as opposed to balsa, or foam core) will allow me to mount things most anywhere on the roof, like my radar tower, GPS antenna, and CB antenna. possibly even a HAM antenna, if i ever officially get my license. ;)

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #4 on: 2018-08-11, 16:05:52
i am pleased with my decision to remove the fly-bridge, as the fiberglass roof is completely rotted.

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #5 on: 2018-08-12, 08:34:47
i have started a schematic that i will use, but it is not yet complete. i will post it when complete.

see attached Eagle schematic file.

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #6 on: 2018-08-16, 05:23:35
I am still waiting on the terminals, but i have received the 8AWG wire for supplying power and ground to the helm/cabin of my boat. i also received a 100W solar panel, that i intended to buy later, but i clicked the "add to cart" for it, when i intended to click it for something else, and only realized later when i got my invoice. just goes to show, don't order anything before the morning cup of coffee.  ;)
But anyway, now that i have it, i plan on installing it on my boat roof to keep the battery topped off.
I expect today i will receive the new shore-power inlet socket. i didn't go with the 30A120Vac, as i only need shore-power to plug in the onboard 40A charger/converter. the socket i purchased is for 15A120Vac (the charger/converter only needs 8 - 10 A max on the AC input side).

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #7 on: 2018-08-17, 17:56:07
As i love Arduino boards, i have been trying to think of a way to integrate one or more Arduinos into my boat. I also have a 7" Nextion programmable touchscreen that i would like to integrate. i am not very impressed with the touchscreen part of the Nextion, but i do like the screens as a display. Raspberry Pi boards are neat too, but i am more inclined toward Arduino.
The first thought i had was to control all the boat functions via an Arduino, but some items are safety related, and i don't need them to fail, should the Arduino fail. for example, if the boat was taking on a little water, but the Arduino failed, and therefore the bilge pump would not come on.

I do have a project for my Raspberry Pi 3, in that i will use it for a chart-plotter.

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #8 on: 2018-08-25, 17:09:44
I worked on the windshield frame today, and i think i have a design i can work with. i have angled it back 30deg, and i will finish the face frames tomorrow. i also hope to work on the basics of the roof as well.I have constructed the frame from some plywood that was kicking around, so i have no idea how long it will last. i will coat it in either resin, or spar varnish to help preserve it. outside the frame will be aluminum plate, and inside will likely be some good hardwood, sealed with spar varnish. the roof, i plan on covering with fiberglass, but we will see. may be cheaper to just paint it.
the radar mast will of course depend on the final height of the roof, but i still have to get the CB antenna above the radar plane, and do the same with the GPS antenna.
i still have to do the wiring, as well. i have been holding off until the roof and windshield are done. the engine still needs exhaust manifolds, the sterndrive still needs gears and bearings, the hull still needs a hole patched, and the boat could really use a good cleaning when it is done.
~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #9 on: 2018-09-02, 19:29:39
this weekend, i have been working on the electrical. i have restored the basic electrical needs for the engine to run. now i just have to connect up the rest of the electrical needs.now, about the switching... i was thinking my 7 inch Nextion screen, and an Arduino would be great for this. the only drawback is that sometimes the touchscreen part of the Nextion doesn't work right. i will have to experiment a bit. i suspect it has something to do with the very heavy Nextion library. perhaps there is some blocking code in there, hidden away. if i figure it out though, i have a 16-relay board available for my boat project, and i may even reduce the number of used output pins with a MCP23017.
~Travis
« Last Edit: 2018-09-04, 05:51:52 by Travis Farmer »

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #10 on: 2019-06-02, 18:55:20
Well, my outdrive may be dead in the water. It seems to be rust locked, despite filling it with marvel mystery oil.

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #11 on: 2019-06-08, 19:25:46
I picked up some outdrives in a bulk deal. They all use the Tru Course steering system, but fortunately, i got the transom units too. Now i just need to buy a gear to tiller steer adaptor, and i can block off the steering cable holes in the transom.

~Travis

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Offline Travis Farmer

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Reply #12 on: 2019-07-20, 07:42:14
I had to buy a different transom unit, that wasn't in salt-water. It even came with power steering! The problem is, the engine coupler was for the wrong size shaft...
So, i have ordered a set of couplers. I just use the one i need, and sell the rest. :D

~Travis

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